JANE BIRKIN-IFIED
Shock, horror - TitkTok has, yet again, pushed another fashion trend onto our feeds. It has been given the aptly-named title of “Jane Birkin-ifying your bag”, which refers to the accessorising and personalisation of handbags using bag charms. To give context as to why this trend is named what it is, we have to time-travel back to 1983, when the model/actress/style icon Jane Birkin, by luck or fate, was seated next to the then-artistic director and CEO of Hermes, Jean-Louis Dumas. She was carrying a picnic basket (the original Birkin bag ifykyk) with a Hermes Agenda, which spilled over when she sat down. Dumas asked her ‘Why don’t you have something that holds your things?’, she told him that he should make a bag big enough for that and the rest is history (very loose interpretation of the encounter, read the first article in the source section for the full story). Birkin famously would add unique touches to her namesake bag, often adorning her Birkin with trinkets such as beaded bracelets, watches, and stickers. With her death in July of last year, this way of accessorising is gaining much traction and attention on TikTok, which I believe is due to the cultural phenomenon of creatives and their creative mediums receiving increased exposure posthumously - Jane Birkin and her iconically decorated bags being a prime example.
Another reason for this bag charm trend could be the poor economy. While a recession has not been officially declared in 2024, there is no doubt that the majority of the population has been hit hard by a cost of living crisis. Consumers are less willing to make personal investments in large luxury items. However, as per the lipstick index (the theory that consumer demand soars for affordable or “little” luxuries during an economic recession), consumers still want their indulgences and will indulge in items they can afford, creating a discernable trend within the luxury accessories sector. Luxury brands such as Coach, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga are capitalising on this trend, offering namesake charms at lower price points (compared to their larger luxury items). This allows consumers to add a touch of luxury to their preowned bags without the expense of a new bag purchase. Furthermore, producing these luxury charms helps brands maintain customer engagement and loyalty during these periods of economic downturn. By offering accessories that are more accessible (yet expensive enough to still be considered luxury), brands can attract a broader audience and encourage repeat purchases. With this strategy, the sales of smaller items are not only boosted, but it also keeps the brand top-of-mind when customers are ready to make a more expensive investment.
Sources:
Marshall, A. (n.d.). A conversation with Jane Birkin in Paris. Substack. Retrieved June 26, 2024, from https://alexandramarshall.substack.com/p/a-conversation-with-jane-birkin-in
Madison Avenue Couture. (n.d.). A brief history of the Birkin bag: The holy grail handbag. Retrieved June 26, 2024, from https://madisonavenuecouture.com/blogs/news/a-brief-history-of-the-birkin-bag-the-holy-grail-handbag
Mower, S. (2023, July 17). Jane Birkin: The story behind the iconic Hermès Birkin bag. Vogue. Retrieved June 26, 2024, from https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/jane-birkin-hermes-bag
Circana. (2023, May 30). Feel-good spending: The lipstick index and how economic downturns can drive surprising retail growth. Retrieved June 26, 2024, from https://www.circana.com/intelligence/blog/2023/feel-good-spending-the-lipstick-index-and-how-economic-downturns-can-drive-surprising-retail-growth/
